(address book at the end)
A home-grown chocolate bar. Two very different reminders of how flour once powered Minneapolis. A $2 don’t-miss breakfast. The secret to a remarkable 75-year restaurant career. Miraculously delicious eggs and the only bacon you’ll want frying at the cabin this summer . An under-the-radar chef who specializes in cooking up friendships. The joys of lard and why Wednesday is the happiest day of the week at the University of Minnesota. All these, and more:
Harmony Organics eggs boast all the right labels: free-range, antibiotic-free, certified organic, vegetarian-fed, handpicked. But the pride of Morristown, Minn., is noteworthy for an even better reason: The eggs taste great, with rich yolks and airy whites that whip up higher and fluffier than a cumulus cloud. Maybe it’s the classical music all those New Hampshire Reds listen to all day long.
Forget about the Big Mac or the Chalupa Supreme. The fast food of the moment is the Margherita Extra at Punch Neapolitan Pizza, a superbly sloppy taste treat that fully embodies the less-is-more ethos: a charred, blistered crust topped by a dynamic tomato duo (crushed San Marzanos and sweetly preserved bite-sized grapes), fragrant basil and creamy mozzarella. Perfection.
A TRUE CRAFTSMAN
It’s a packed Saturday night at the Craftsman, and chef Mike Phillips was beaming with pride. “This is what I’ve been up to all winter,” he said, as he presented a charcuterie plate that would have glued Chardin to his easel, a beauty loaded with superb sopressata, coppa and ham. Yeah, that cured meats class at Iowa State University that Phillips recently enrolled in sure is paying delicious dividends.
IT’S GOT THE POWER
Reach out and nearly touch the power of St. Anthony Falls at the thrilling new Water Power Park. The Xcel Energy-owned platform gives viewers a so-close-you’ll-get-wet glimpse of the Mississippi cataract that launched Betty Crocker, the Pillsbury Doughboy and many other Minnesota food giants.
MILL CITY SADNESS
The imposing gray granite obelisk that dominates Lakewood Cemetery’s northwest corner doesn’t commemorate a city father or a captain of industry. This dignified memorial honors the 18 men who lost their lives when the world’s then-largest flour mill, the Washburn A, exploded on May 2, 1878. Beneath carved representations of mill stones and shafts of wheat, an inscription reads, “Labor wide as the earth hath its summit in heaven.”
Musical luminaries always seem to grab top billing at the Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant, but the guy who really deserves to see his name in lights is its equally talented chef, Jack Riebel.
When the restaurant is called Pop!, it had better have a fantastic soda list. And it does, with more than 40 choices, ranging from the familiar (Coke, Sprite, Orangina) to the arcane: Cheerwine, SunDrop and several wild flavors of Ramune, the super-fizzy Japanese import. Chef/owner Clark Knutson’s favorite is Thomas Kemper Black Cherry. “It brings me back to when I was a kid, when a can of Tom Moore black cherry was a big treat,” he said.
THE SMILE AT THE DOOR
The gracious greeting that meets noon-hour diners at Macy’s River Room is a patented Lydia Lunney trademark, molded over a remarkable 75-year restaurant career. Her secret is simple. “If you’re kind to people, they’re kind to you,” she said. Lunney began working in Schuneman’s Cherry Tree Room in 1933. When the store’s River Room opened in 1947, she was there, and she followed her employer — by then its name had changed to Dayton’s — across the street to its new (and current) home in 1963. She retired in 1983, but returned a few months later, “Because I love it,” said the 92-year-old. “I love the people, I love my co-workers, I love the restaurant. There’s never a dull moment. It makes me feel alive. It keeps me young.”
Eighteen months ago, three of Minneapolis’ most gifted chefs were unemployed. Now look at them, from left.
Steven Brown is wowing all at Porter & Frye, his lux new Hotel Ivy hot spot.
Stewart Woodman has funneled his outsized imagination and prowess into charming quarters at Heidi’s Minneapolis, named for his wife and culinary cohort.
And Doug Flicker has made Mission American Kitchen a bustling dinner destination, matching its reputation as downtown’s toughest lunch reservation.
COOL NEW NAME, LITERALLY
In the naming-their-apples department, University of Minnesota horticulturists have conjured up some doozies: Honeycrisp, SnowSweet, Regent. But when it came time to slap a supermarket-friendly moniker on the winter-hardy, super-sweet breed known as MN447, the U put out a call for ideas. After sorting through more than 7,000 suggestions, a clear (and totally Minnesotan) winner emerged: Frostbite. The diminutive apple is tailor-made for cider, but don’t get too anxious for a taste; the first trees are at least six years away from bearing fruit.
TAKE A SEAT
Leave it to Blu Dot, the savvy northeast Minneapolis furnituremaker, to come up with a functional, affordable ($169) and eye-catching companion to kitchen counters.
The mini-burger meter that hangs over the kitchen door at the Herkimer Pub & Brewery has a definite Golden Arches aura, although the number of mini burgers sold hasn’t quite reached the “billions and billions” level just yet. The latest figure was 130,660. And counting.
Before it lands in supermarket dairy cases in all 50 states, one of Minnesota’s tastiest exports starts at a handful of small, family-owned dairy farms outside of Sauk Centre. Then, in a red brick creamery on the town’s Main Street, Helios Nutrition converts that premium organic milk into the fizzy, drinkable yogurt known as kefir (keh-ferr), a Turkish word that accurately translates into “good feeling.”
The cheapest breakfast in town — just $2 — also happens to be one of the most satisfying. It’s two slices of whatever breads are on the cutting board (an embarrassment of riches) at Rustica, served with sweet butter and raspberry jam.
THE GOOD GUY
Ferris Shiffer of the private Minikahda Club in Minneapolis is “the best chef in town that no one has ever heard of,” said Russell Klein, chef/co-owner of Meritage in St. Paul. Klein is speaking for a fraternity of Twin Cities chefs — J.P. Samuelson, Vincent Francoual, Heidi Woodman and David Vlach, to name a few — who have turned to the generous Shiffer for friendship and a paycheck when they’re in between jobs. “He’s such a great chef, and such a great supporter of local chefs,” agreed Samuelson, chef/owner of jP American Bistro in Minneapolis. “If you’re fired, or your restaurant closes, and you want to duck out of sight to lick your wounds, you go over to Ferris, you work and you quietly plan your next attack.”
FIVE REASONS TO GET OUT OF BED THIS SUMMER
“Flappers,” the light, yeasty pancakes that rise on Bess Giannakakis’ well-seasoned griddle at her Colossal Cafe.
A bracing, ginger-laced glass of carrot-beet-orange juice at the city’s oldest juice bar (41 years young), Tao Natural Foods.
The Good Day Cafe’s fried egg sandwich, a towering stack of avocado, ham and fried onions on toasted brioche.
Chef Bill Baskin’s flax seed waffles (from grains raised at Dry Creek Farm in Milan, Minn.), the weekend brunch headliner at the Red Stag Supperclub.
Mala Vujnovich’s crêpes, above, filled with fresh fruit, Vujnovich’s expertly made preserves or locally produced meats and cheeses, at the Midtown Farmers Market.
Dunn Bros. Coffee has an admirable gift for breathing new life into beloved old buildings. The long list includes the enchanting 131-year-old Smith Douglas More house in Eden Prairie (below), the 129-year-old yellow brick freight house at the Milwaukee Road Depot in downtown Minneapolis, a former grocery dating to 1901 in Minnetonka and, most brilliantly, the chain’s newest location in the Education Sciences Building, the 1924 beauty on the University of Minnesota campus where the taconite refining process was born.
LABOR OF LOVE
In his one-man workshop, Colin Gasko takes premium cacao beans and converts them into superpremium chocolate bars, no simple task. His Rogue Chocolatier bars are intensely flavored, and intensely local. Gasko travels the world in search of great beans, then back in Minneapolis he vividly demonstrates that cacao from Trinidad produces a flavor that is markedly different from that of Jamaican-grown beans.
A CORNY SOLUTION
Don’t face the upcoming sweet-corn season without Butter Boy and Butter Girl, the adorable yet utterly practical brainchild of Minneapolis mom Katherine Waymire.
CANAL PARK PLEASER
Don’t leave Duluth without breezing through the Northern Waters Smokehaus for a tasty souvenir – make that a cooler’s worth – of owner Eric Goerdt’s fabulous house-smoked Lake Superior trout and whitefish.
The funky May Day Cafe performs many tasks well, but one effort stands out above all others: truly outstanding croissants. No wonder they sell out fast.
Summer means fruit pies, and lard is the one-way road to pie crust nirvana. Don’t believe it? Listen to the experts. “We like lard,” wrote Matt and Ted Lee in “The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook” (W.W. Norton). “We don’t use it every day, but when we do, we use it without guilt and with great results. One claim about lard that is undisputed is that it gives biscuits and pie crusts an appealing flakiness.” (See their recipe on page T6.) As for locally sourced lard, nothing beats the silky, pure-white, rendered-on-site stuff (made from hogs raised at Hidden Stream Farm in Elgin, Minn.) at Clancey’s Meats & Fish.
SUPER WORK WEAR
When it comes to the fashion-don’t world of food-service uniforms, a sense of humor is a valuable asset. It’s got to be a job requirement for Galactic Pizza’s fun-loving delivery crew.
HUMP DAY BLISS
The address doesn’t sound promising — the Andrew Boss Laboratory of Meat Science — but it’s the place to be every Wednesday afternoon, when the University of Minnesota’s Food Science & Nutrition Dairy Salesroom opens its doors and sells affordably priced ice cream, cheese and butter, all produced by students using milk from cows raised on campus.
ON THE GROW
It’s encouraging to see so many member-owned natural foods co-ops in the midst of a building boom. Valley Natural Foods and Hampton Park Co-op are both expanding their stores, Seward Co-op has a destination location under construction and Mississippi Market has just announced plans to replace its cramped Randolph-and-Fairview store with a roomy new facility.
CLICK AND DINE
Who needs an administrative assistant when there’s opentable.com, the convenient website where reservations at 159 Twin Cities restaurants are but a few keystrokes away? (The site also can be accessed via startribune.com/dining.)
Just in time for grilling season: the skinless, all-beef, nitrate-free, packs-a-punch hot dog from Thousand Hills Cattle Co.
UNDER THE STARS
The proliferation of place-making rooftop patios has been a happy Minneapolis dining trend, thanks to memorable warm-weather venues at Joe’s Garage, Brit’s Pub & Eating Establishment, Solera, Stella’s Fish Cafe, the Chambers Hotel and, the latest addition, r. Norman’s.
Another welcome trend: the rise of excellent local microbreweries, including Flat Earth, Brau Brothers, Surly and Wisconsin’s Rush River.
BLT SEASON, HERE WE COME
Waseca, Minn., farmer Tim Fischer takes his time making his extraordinary bacon, and each thick slices relies upon slowly infused smoke — not salt — for its resonant campfire flavor.
Summer vegetables will be flooding farmers markets soon enough, but until then, there’s always the surprisingly fresh flavors and textures sealed inside each bag of Sno Pac frozen vegetables. Many are harvested on the Gengler family’s 1,500-acre farm in southeastern Minnesota, and all of them are packed at the Genglers’ plant in nearby Caledonia. “Maybe I’m biased, but I think that Midwestern-grown products taste better,” said Pete Gengler. “It’s all in the soil.”
Here’s a guaranteed day brightener: Head to the Finnish Bistro and indulge in one (or four) of Soile Anderson’s exquisitely buttery shortbread sandwiches, filled with raspberry preserves and topped with cute pink icing.
Sweetbreads are making a comeback on local menus, but thrill-seeking diners can go a step further at Saffron, where chef/owner Sami Wadeh sells about two dozen servings a week of poached, lightly fried lamb brains. “It’s the way my mother used to prepare it,” he said.
REALLY LOCALLY GROWN
Garlic mustard, a springtime invasive despised by woodland wildflowers but beloved by gourmands, is being plucked from the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden in Minneapolis and appearing on menus at two locavorian standard-bearers: Heartland and Lucia’s Restaurant.
GREEN IS GOOD
Since Metro Transit isn’t leaving Nicollet Mall any time soon, sidewalk diners can at least be grateful to the agency for replacing many of its stinky, noisy vehicles with clean, quiet, hybrid buses.
TAKE A SEAT
Local diners may not know Jesus Rivera by name, but they are intimately familiar with his handiwork. “If you’ve sat in a booth or a banquette in the Twin Cities, chances are Jesus probably built it,” said Minneapolis architect David Shea. “Leather, vinyl, fabric, anything upholstered, he’s your guy.”
MILL CITY MARVEL
There are plenty of reasons to become a regular at the Mill City Farmers Market, and Susan Dietrich belongs at the top of that list. Her Very Prairie stand is stocked with her own exquisite flatbread crackers, crostinis, mustards and chutneys, as well as fresh and aged goat cheeses, “all the stuff that goes great on a cheese board,” she said. There’s street food, too, in the form of s’mores, built with her handmade graham crackers and marshmallows that are brûléed to order. “I don’t know if I’m going to make any money on them,” she said with a laugh. “But they sure taste good.”
“The Minnesota Homegrown Cookbook” is just that, a lushly photographed travelogue that asks the creative minds behind several dozen restaurants to find inspiration in the glorious output of an equal number of family farms; 100 delicious recipes ensue.
THE GREAT PUMPKIN
Don’t take our word for it: The deep autumnal flavor of Hay River pumpkin seed oil, produced from pumpkins raised in Prairie Farm, Wis., by first-time farmers Ken Seguine and Jay Gilbertson, improves everything it touches. Nathan Berg, chef/co-owner of Native Bay in Chippewa Falls, Wis., has used it in vinaigrettes and a pumpkin seed blini topped with wild rice-dusted bluegill. “I’ve been so impressed by it,” he said.
SHARING THE WEALTH
Three cheers to the innovative Cooks of Crocus Hill crop-share program, where treasures such as cherries, peaches, morel mushrooms, heritage turkeys and foie gras are rooted out with a forager’s prowess and then reserved in food-lover’s quantities.
City officials: Tot lots and soccer fields have their value, but what the Minneapolis parks system needs more of is summertime gems like Sea Salt Eatery, the casual seafood cafe tucked inside the Minnehaha Park pavilion.
TALL AND COOL
Big Bowl’s house-made ginger ales are such effective summer swelter busters that the chain should bill them as Air Conditioners in a Glass.
LETTUCE THAT IMPRESSES
Fresh, year-round, locally raised lettuce just got huge, thanks to Bushel Boy, the Owatonna, Minn., greenhouse grower that has introduced leaf lettuce sold with its root system intact, a texture- and flavor-retaining bonus that also adds several days of refrigerated shelf life.
Every cook should know about Eversharp, where owner Joe Gamache sharpens knives in a flash and stocks an astonishing variety of kitchen implements, including an impressive array of half-price reconditioned (code word: store samples, never used) Wüsthofs.
Taste 50 address book
Taste 50 address book
Big Bowl, three Twin Cities locations, including 12649 Wayzata Blvd., Minnetonka, 952-797-9888, bigbowl.com
Blu Dot furniture is available at bludot.com
Brau Brothers Brewing Co. beers are available in stores and restaurants; for a list, go to braubrothersbrewing.com
Brit’s Pub & Eating Establishment, 1110 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-332-3908, britspub.com
Bushel Boy lettuce (bushelboy.com) is available at most supermarkets
Butter Boy and Girl is available in stores; for a list, go to talismandesigns.com
Chambers Hotel, 901 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-767-6900, chambersminneapolis.com
Clancey’s Meats & Fish, 4307 Upton Av. S., Mpls., 612-926-0222
Colossal Cafe, 1839 E. 42nd St., Mpls., 612-729-2377
Cooks of Crocus Hill, 877 Grand Av., St Paul, 651-228-1333 and 3925 W. 50th St., Edina, 952-285-1903, cooksofcrocushill.com
Craftsman, 4300 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-722-0175, www.craftsmanrestaurant.com
Dakota Jazz Bar & Restaurant, 1010 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-332-1010, dakotacooks.com
Dunn Bros. Coffee, 75 Twin Cities locations, including 12934 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka, 952-935-5471, dunnbros.com
Eversharp, 344 NE. Taft St., Mpls., 612-379-1300
Finnish Bistro, 2264 Como Av., St. Paul, 651-645-9181, finnishbistro.com
Fischer Farms bacon is available at the Golden Fig, 790 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-602-0144, goldenfig.com
Flat Earth Brewing Co. beers are available in stores and restaurants; for a list, go to flatearthbrewing.com
Frostbite apples will not be available commercially until about 2014
Galactic Pizza, 2917 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., 612-824-9100, galacticpizza.com
Good Day Cafe, 5410 Wayzata Blvd., Golden Valley, 763-544-0205
Hampton Park Co-op, 928 Raymond Av., St. Paul, 651-646-6686, hampdenparkcoop.com
Harmony Organics eggs are available at the Wedge Co-op, 2105 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., 612-871-3993, wedge.coop
Hay River pumpkin seed oil is available at hayriver.net
Heartland, 1806 St. Clair Av., St. Paul, 651-699-3536, heartlandrestaurant.com
Heidi’s Minneapolis, 819 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-354-3512, heidismpls.com
Helios Nutrition kefir (lifeway.net) is available at most supermarkets and natural foods co-ops
Herkimer Pub & Brewery, 2922 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., 612-821-0101, theherkimer.com
jP American Bistro, 2937 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., 612-824-9300, jpamericanbistro.com
Joe’s Garage, 1610 Harmon Pl., Mpls., 612-904-1163, joes-garage.com
Lakewood Cemetery, 3600 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-822-2171, lakewoodcemetery.com
Lucia’s Restaurant, 1432 W. 31st St., Mpls., 612-825-1572, www.lucias.com
May Day Cafe, 3440 Bloomington Av. S., Mpls., 612-729-5627
Meritage, 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, meritage-stpaul.com
Metro Transit, 612-373-3333, metrotransit.org
Midtown Farmers Market, Lake St. and 22nd Av. S., Mpls., 612-724-7457, midtownfarmersmarket.org
Minikahda Club, 3205 Excelsior Blvd., Mpls., 612-926-0621, minikahdaclub.com
“The Minnesota Homegrown Cookbook” is published by Voyageur Press ($29.95), voyageurpress.com
Mission American Kitchen, 77 S. 7th St., Mpls., 612-339-1000, missionamericankitchen.com
Mississippi Market, 1810 Randolph Av., St. Paul, 651-690-0507, msmarket.coop
Northern Waters Smokehaus, 394 Lake Av. S., Duluth, 218-724-7307, northernwaterssmoke haus.com
Pop! Neighborhood Restaurant, 2859 NE. Johnson St., Mpls., 612-788-0455, poprestaurant.com
Porter & Frye, 1115 2nd Av. S., Mpls., 612-353-3500, porterandfrye.com
Punch Neapolitan Pizza, five Twin Cities locations, including 8353 Crystal View Road, Eden Prairie, 952-943-9557
r.Norman’s, 700 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-238-7770, rnormans.com
Red Stag Supperclub, 509 1st Av. NE., Mpls., 612-767-7766, redstagsupperclub.com
River Room, 411 Cedar St., St. Paul, 651-292-5174, macys.com
Jesus Rivera is owner of A. Rivera & Assoc. Inc., 3900 NE. Jackson St., Columbia Heights, 612-788-3500
Rogue Chocolatier chocolates are available at Surdyk’s, 303 E. Hennepin Av., Mpls., 612-379-3232, surdyks.com; Kitchen Window, 3001 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-824-4417, kitchenwindow.com; Kopplin’s Coffee, 490 Hamline Av. S., St. Paul, 651-698-0457, kopplinscoffee.com; and at roguechocolatier.com
Rush River Brewing Co. beers are available in restaurants; for a list, go to rushriverbeer.com
Rustica, 816 W. 46th St., Mpls., 612-822-1119, rusticabakery.com
Saffron, 123 N. 3rd St., Mpls., 612-746-5533, saffronmpls.com
Sea Salt Eatery, 4825 Minnehaha Av. S., Mpls., 612-721-8990, seasalteatery.com
Seward Co-op Grocery & Deli, 2111 E. Franklin Av., Mpls., 612-338-2465, seward.coop
Sno Pac frozen vegetables are available at Cub Foods, Kowalski’s Market and most Twin Cities natural foods co-ops
Solera, 900 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-338-0062, solera-restaurant.com
Stella’s Fish Cafe, 1400 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-824-8862, stellasfishcafe.com
Surly Brewing Co. beers are available in stores and restaurants; for a list, go to surlybrewing.com
Tao Natural Foods, 2200 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-377-4630, taonaturalfoods.com
Thousand Hills Cattle Co. hot dogs are available at Kowalski’s Markets, Fresh & Natural Foods, all Twin Cities natural food co-ops and at simondelivers.com
University of Minnesota Food Science & Nutrition Dairy Salesroom, 166 Andrew Boss Laboratory of Meat Science, 1354 Eckles Av., St. Paul, 612-624-7776
Valley Natural Foods, 13750 Cty. Rd. 11, Burnsville, 952-891-1212, valleynaturalfoods.com
Very Prairie products can be found at the Mill City Farmers Market, 2nd St. and Chicago Av. S., Mpls., 612-341-7580, millcityfarmersmarket.org
Water Power Park, Main St. SE. at 3rd Av. SE., Mpls., waterpowerpark.com